Equipment: Food - colourant and additive free, best purchased from a pet shop or mart. Use supermarkets once you know what to avoid (most of them!). Treats - again buy colourant free, and use sparingly. Buy good sized water bowls, toys and a brush. You may also need an Ancol or 'stop pull' harness, appropriate collar or lead. Then a bed or folded single duvet until you can buy the right size.

Identity: Order an identification tag right away www.pettags.co.uk/
A microchip is not guaranteed to be picked up when scanned so a tag should also be used. Do not put your pets name on the tag, only the address, mobile and landline numbers. If wearing a Rescue Remedies tag, keep it on your dog until your tag arrives, then please post ours back to us, address is on the tag!

Sharing: If you have a resident dog it is advised to remove toys and chews in your home for a few weeks so that there are no triggers for arguments while they are getting to know each other. Arguments are likely to be caused by 4 things: jealousy/attention, possessiveness of toys, guarding of food or space e.g. bed and tiredness/excitement. We always advise you to give extra special attention to your resident dog and allow the new dog to find their own way. If they are feeling left out and come to you while you are stroking your new arrival be sure to switch your attention to the resident dog. Let them appreciate it is principally the resident's territory first. Make sure their feeding bowls are placed well apart, or in separate rooms initially, so they have their own space to eat in and if one finishes first, ensure that they don't wander over to the other dogs bowl, be present and marshal, until trust is there.

Settling: During the transition period, a new dog will needs time to adjust to the rules and routine. They need your leadership! A dog is a pack animal looking for guidance, and it is up to you to teach them good, acceptable behaviours. If the human does not take charge, the dog will try to. Let your new dog know from the start who is the kind boss. When you catch them doing something they shouldn't, stay calm, and then let them know immediately, by tone of voice. Use corrections sparingly. The main focus is praise when they get it right, and this way shape their behaviour. Count on a dog marking or having accidents during the first few days, even if they are house-trained. They need to lay their scent and make their territory their own. Once established this urge will fade. A dog can take anything from a few days to a few months to settle into the routine in another home, especially if they have come from a kennel environment. Others settle so quickly you won't remember when they weren't a part of your life.

Games: Don't play tug-of-war, rough & tumble or engage in other combative play. These teach your dog to challenge and be wilful. Balls and playing 'Fetch', Frisbees and Hide & Seek with treats work well and teach deference and ensure power balance in your relationship based on approval.

Vet's overview: Register your new dog with a veterinary practice. Ask around dog owners in the area, you will soon get to know the 'best vet practise even if it's a little further.

Grooming: Brushing your new dog every day will help to develop your bond.

Security: Keep the dog on a lead when outdoors in unfenced areas. Otherwise, you'll have no control if your dog suddenly obeys instinct and chases a squirrel into the street ... tussles with another dog ... or runs after a child. Your new dog has no bond with you and therefore no recall until trust has been built-up between you and they know the area. N.B. Unless we tell you otherwise, Terriers will always have to be walked on extender leads and should not be allowed to run free because of their in-built chase instincts. If unsure please check with us. Your new dog should also be supervised when out in the garden initially. If there is a way to escape, most dogs will find it - over, under or through! Only time and experience will tell if they can be trusted!

Dog's name: A dog can learn a new name quickly if you use it consistently. Start by linking it with the previous name, but only change their name after full adoption is applied for.

Training/Socialising: Consider signing for a local dog obedience/training class and you'll learn what a joy it is to have a well-trained dog.

INTRODUCING YOUR NEW DOG TO PEOPLE:

Withhold visitors for the first few days. A new dog feels bewildered and stressed by all of the changes, so surrounding them with too many people might cause them to cower or nip. So delay introductions to friends and neighbours until the dog has had a chance to settle.

Make introductions one at a time, on a lead for control. Exercise and calm the dog before meetings, and have treats handy to shape and reward good behaviour. You may want to have the dog on lead so you can 'check' immediately as needed. Make sure visitors are relaxed and that you convey confidence. The dog may want to sniff the visitor first, before any petting. Beware: if the guest is tense, the dog may sense this as a direct challenge. So set the tone with your actions and attitude - wait until you're happy and relaxed. Read cues from your dog: how comfortable do they appear? Many dogs love new people, while others feel overwhelmed. Don't allow visitors to 'whip' a terriers excitement levels up, as these will get beyond their own control.

Expect your new dog to engage in behaviours you'll need to understand and may need to correct, such as growling or jumping up at people. Assert yourself as leader. Allowing a dog to jump up at people is a common mistake; teach your dog "off" from the start.

INTRODUCING DOGS TO EACH OTHER:

Prep: Just before you go to collect your new dog, take your resident dog for a nice long walk to burn off some of their energy. Prior to the introduction, lead walk the new dog outside on neutral ground. Then bring the other dog to the same area on a lead. Make sure you are relaxed, so you don't transmit anxiety through the lead - relax those shoulders! Avoid keeping the collars pulled tight, since "restraint frustration" elevates tension. The dogs will be more relaxed knowing they have some room to maneuver. Watch carefully so you can make a lead correction (a quick pull on the lead and release, but not punishing) and tell them "No" to disrupt the action if necessary.

Intro: Make the meeting casual, with a walk and praise (timed to reward good, relaxed behavior). Introduce them gradually, making sure the dogs are calm. Avoid head to head, join from behind and move to side walking. Reassure the dog if nervous, but act normally. If it's not OK, suspend introductions and resume a solo walk. Be careful to reward only good behavior. Aim to reintroduce the dogs walking in the same direction apart and gradually moving together. When they are close keep walking within sight of each other.  Aim to neutralize their energy with their focus being on the walk not on each other if possible, aiming to get closer so they are aware of each other and not reacting then so they can smell each other. Introduce each resident dog to the newcomer, one at a time in this way. If the dogs are receptive to each other, praise each one to show that good things happen when they are together. If there is a negative reaction, move back to the distance at which neither reacted. Watch for warning signs such as fur raised on the back, staring or stiffening up, preempt behavioural display. If one dog reacts, don't punish; instead, take him in to a neutral or less valued area to settle down and ignore him. If both dogs react, remove each to different, neutral areas and try again until they are walking together without reaction. Allow a good 20 mins - we have worked through from negative starts to 30 mins later playing together, it seemed a long 20 mins!

Intervention: When correcting unacceptable behaviour, timing is critical. Do not wait for the lunge; at the first hint of tension e.g. a stare, correct with a firm "No" and a quick (but not punishing) lead correction, and redirect the dog's attention to you. You must keep control and show the dogs that YOU are the leader. Don't be alarmed if they don't warm up to each other immediately. Either dog may engage in posturing, barking, marking. It is essential to use a positive vocal tone with any meeting with another dog or person. People have a tendency to be silent and do not express happiness or enthusiasm - yet that is exactly what the dogs need to hear. They need to know that their leaders are confident and happy.

Neutrality in territory: When walking in harmony together outside the home, move to your back garden. Be aware that they should be taken through gates & doorways separately to avoid a barging competition. Do not hold one back by grabbing the collar as this may build tension. Judge the situation from your 'gut instincts' - there is no prescriptive formulae. For example, in the garden, release the new dog from the lead and let that dog explore on it's own. When the new dog has calmed down and relaxed, release the resident dog. They will then explore each other from top to toe - quite normal! When they are both relaxed again you can proceed into the house with them back on their leads - your resident dog should enter the house first followed by the new dog. Remove toys for a while until they are relaxed, and use treats as timely distractions and sharing sessions. If introducing a second dog, do lots of extra walks together side by side at a brisk pace as this will help them to bond as a pack and neutralises energy. Sometimes we suggest you take your resident dog out for one to one walks so they can touch base with their special relationship with you.

DOGS & CHILDREN:

Never leave children alone with your new dog.
Teach your own and visiting children:
How to approach a dog i.e. not to rush up, scream at, or pester.
Never harass or mistreat a dog. 
Don't jump on or rough & tumble with dogs.
A dog tells you they are afraid or overexcited by growling and nipping, this isn't aggressive this is just dog communication.
Do not allow a child to walk a dog alone - your dog may be OK, but how will they manage if the dog chases a cat across the road or meets an aggressive dog that is off the lead.

DOGS WITH A RESIDENT CAT:

This varies enormously on the skills of the pack leader, the skills and confidence of the cat and the skills and 'type' of dog you have. Our Forum has a thread under Dog Chat where different people have put their various ideas. We would just like to say here, allow your new dog to involve their nose. They need to smell the scent of the cat, where it regularly sits etc., to begin to accept it as a presence, in their pack. Don't take risks especially with terriers as cats are small furries and the dogs "prey instinct" may surface. They will need to win your trust. You need to discern between 'play' and 'prey' instincts. Be aware the dog is sometimes at a greater risk from cat swipes. Finally the cat needs many easy escape routes to get high to safety or 'out and gone'! Use your voice, a short trailing lead and harness to orchestrate matters initially. A muzzle may help you to truly test the situation, but remember both can still get damaged even with a muzzle on. Don't let this write up put you off, we have homed many dogs (and terriers) in with cats successfully.

Finally: Be reasonable in your expectations. Life with you is a different experience for your new dog, so give them time to adjust. You may think in terms of hours or days; we think in terms of weeks and months. Be patient, and you will be amply rewarded. You'll soon find out that you've made a friend for life. No one will ever greet you with as much enthusiasm or provide you with as much unqualified love and loyalty as your dog.